Q: using color film and converting to b/w digitally

[psamson]

I recently learned that my wife had her Father's (now deceased) M3 and two lenses sitting in a box for 15+ years. I've been reviewing a few things on the M3, talked to a few people at the local camera shops, and will soon shoot some film for the first time in 10+ years.

I'm going to shoot a few rolls of both Kodak 400NC and Kodak Tri-X 400.

For pics where I think our kids will have an interest, I intend to convert the negatives to digital for inclusion into iPhoto (family photo library).

Question: is it feasible to shoot everything in color, and for pics where I want it in b/w convert it over in digital using iPhoto or Aperture? I'm wondering how much I might be "losing" by not shooting in 35mm b/w.

[andybarton]

Perfectly feasible, especially if you use C41 b&w film as your comparator. Colour film, won't ever give you that Tri-X look, though.

The B&W shots on my 2008 web pages were often shot on Reala and then converted.

You will probably need the M3 (and maybe the lenses too) CLA'd. 15 years in a box is a long time to be sitting doing nothing, and the shutter speeds could well be off by now. It will really be worthwhile.

[budrichard]

Before spending money on a CLA especially for lenses, I would open the back and holding my eye up to the film plane, run through the shutter speeds, if the speeds sound right and you can see light at each actuation, there is no reason to not expose a few rolls of film to ascertain shutter performance. At most camera shows there used to people that would put your camera on a test machine and easily run through the speeds. A lens is very easy to judge, look at it by shining a light through and on the elements. If all looks good and the diapfragm works smoothly and has no oil on it, then use the lens noting any focusing problems.
It is NOT unusual for Leicas to sit for years without thier owners using them and still function perfectly. There is really nothing to go wrong unless in a corrosive environment such as high humidty or salt air.
I once purchased an M3 manufactured in 1963 from the estate of the original owner with MR meter and DR Summicron in the early 1990's. Camera, lens and meter functioned fine. Took to a Leica 'Clean & Check' Day and tech said speeds were fine, original L seal still in place. Said that there was no lube left and to send the camera in within the next year. Lens and meter were fine.
Purchased M6 Classic 0.85 with ASPH lenses a couple of years ago from Professional Portrait Photographer/Collector, that had the camera and lenses sitting in his safe since new. He had just purchased Canon Digital cameras and needed the money. Camera and ASPH lenses I purchased from him worked and still work absolutely perfect, meter and all.
Good luck with your M3!-Dick

BTW use Tri-x or Tmax. Unless you have visually seen properly processed black and white actual prints made from properly exposed B&W film, you won't have any reference to ascertain how truly brilliant with large tonal range that can be accomplished using this medium.
MY first encounter was with a traveling exhibit of Gordan Parks' works in the 1960's. I realised that my prints were actually gray rather than brilliant whites and deep blacks. But it wasn't until I started working as a news photographer and my boss, the Head Photographer took me aside and said, 'We need to learn printing!" and we spent days in the darkroom going through the process that I actually got a grasp on making good prints.

[psamson]

Andy and Dick, thanks for your input. I've spent a lot of time looking at the camera, through the two lens, etc. Everything looks good and movements feel fine. I'm going to shoot 4-5 rolls this week.

Peter