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#1 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: 21.06.2006
Location: Airstrip 1 - 53°17'N, 03°04'W
Posts: 15,408
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Fuji, Tetenal or Kodak chemistry? (i.e. 3 or 6 baths)
Any preferences? (I know that there are probably about two people here doing this, but I thought I'd give it a try...)
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Andy _________________________________________________ Website: Updated: 18th July 2010 Blog: "My Turn This Year (too)" Updated: 28th July 2010 __________________________________________________ |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Erfahrener Benutzer
Join Date: 25.11.2006
Posts: 823
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Quote:
I am coming to the conclusion that fast B&W is the only film that makes sense now, for that grainy look, every time I take the time to scan and spot a colour slide or worse an MF slide I think to myself 'it would have been easier / faster / cleaner by digital'. None of which helps answer your question! ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Erfahrener Benutzer
Join Date: 30.09.2002
Location: Manchester
Posts: 13,901
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Andy, I've used Patersons 3 bath kits in the past. Don't know if they are still being sold.
Link to operating instructions for Jobo... JOBO AG
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Steve Website - www.steveunsworth.co.uk Flickr - http://www.flickr.com/photos/39877124@N05/ |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Neuer Benutzer
Join Date: 11.11.2007
Posts: 3
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I hand process E-6 on every RVP I shoot. It is just like B&W no tricks. I use Kodak Single Use Kit, not complicated just a bit tedious. +- 1 degree celcius or even more doesn't really matter. What matter is agitation, especially if you have 4 rolls in a one liter tank and don't do good agitation in the bleach and fix, then most of the frames would have some kind of yellowish stain. I prefer doing 3 rolls in a batch.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Erfahrener Benutzer
Join Date: 26.01.2005
Posts: 3,666
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Photosensitive » Processing colour slides at home
DIY Developing E6 Film Maby this is some help Ruben |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Gast
Posts: n/a
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I have used Kodak and Tetenal 3 bath E6 kits and always gotten excellent results.
Keeping your temperatures to close tolerances - especially in the first developer - is crucial. Once you get past the first developer, the temp is not as critical. It's not hard to do - all you need is a good darkroom thermometer and hot & cold running water to regulate your temps. The 6 bath is for automated machine processing (as I understand it). |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Erfahrener Benutzer
Join Date: 04.03.2004
Location: Denver
Posts: 3,274
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As people have said, it is relatively easy so long as you watch that first developer temp and time.
I did my first chromes in E4 chems in 1972 in high school - pushed 1.5 stops, no less, and it was a breeze. Downsides to doing it at home are more in the mounting headaches, cleanliness, and the fact that the chems have a very short working life once mixed ( two weeks at the max) so one has to shoot enough to use everything up before it goes sour. Oh - I've used everything, including the 9-step (!!) E4 mentioned above. They all work. I've used Kodak 6-step recently mostly because it was easier to find than the other brands. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: 21.06.2006
Location: Airstrip 1 - 53°17'N, 03°04'W
Posts: 15,408
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Many thanks for the advice guys.
I have some 3 bath chemistry on order (it takes 3 weeks to get...), so will have a play around nearer Christmas. Need to shoot some Astia first ![]()
__________________
Andy _________________________________________________ Website: Updated: 18th July 2010 Blog: "My Turn This Year (too)" Updated: 28th July 2010 __________________________________________________ |
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