stump4545 Posted June 19, 2014 Share #1 Posted June 19, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) If you shoot BW 35mm film, scan it and make inkjets prints is most of the film negative magic lost, or are the qualities of film still evident in the inkjet print? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 19, 2014 Posted June 19, 2014 Hi stump4545, Take a look here Scanning 35mm BW film and Inkjet prints. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Michael Hiles Posted June 19, 2014 Share #2 Posted June 19, 2014 I have seen some fine B&W inkjet prints - but so far never one that has the "something special" of an expertly made silver print. I think this is probably about the printing - not the film. There are ways of making silver prints from digital files (including scans from film) which look very good, but I am still a promoter of silver prints made from a negative in a darkroom. Not yet equalled in my opinion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted June 19, 2014 Share #3 Posted June 19, 2014 I went to the Martin Parr/Tony Ray-Jones exhibition recently at Bradford. The prints were a mixture of tradition photo paper and inkjet. The inkjet photos look excellent IMHO, and I doubt that I'd have realised which were which if the labelling hadn't indicated so. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
honcho Posted June 19, 2014 Share #4 Posted June 19, 2014 Carbon on cotton, done well, is something to behold. It takes work and experience. A lot of both. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicaphilia Posted June 19, 2014 Share #5 Posted June 19, 2014 If you shoot BW 35mm film, scan it and make inkjets prints is most of the film negative magic lost, or are the qualities of film still evident in the inkjet print? Film is about grain, smooth tonal transitions, unclipped highlights. All of these are apparent whether the output medium is silver halide or inkjet. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted June 23, 2014 Share #6 Posted June 23, 2014 Scanning immediately flattens the film curve unless you allow the scanner software to put it back in which I do not recommend. Scan for shadows and unclipped highlights, use PS to fix it up. If you can not get it all in, make two or more scans, highlights, mid tones, shadows. Then assemble with HDR. Then make corrections to contrast etc. I find film development pegged for a condenser enlarger is about the correct time. Diffusion enlargers require more time and the scan has too much contrast. To do even better, expose at 50% box speed and cut development 20%. This gives rich shadow detail and highlights not blown. Use levels to fill out the contrast range and add a slight curve and the printer will give about the same tones up and down the scale as a darkroom print. Esthetics will be different depending on paper and ink. I have had good results with Delta 100, T Max 100 & 400, and tri x . Some films are definitely better than others. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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