Tri-X with what developer

[Jessestr]

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Hey guys

 

I'm thinking about what developer to chooise, I always liked Tri-X and Rodinal but it's sometimes too grainy; As I finally decided to shoot my models on film too and not digital anymore. I need to find the developer that suits me best.

 

I'm not experienced in all the differences of the developers. But what I've seen is that XTOL, HC-110 & D-76 & Rodinal are the ones to choose for Tri-X.

 

Only, there's so few information about the pro's and contra's of each developer. And I normally overexpose tri-x to 320 and meter for the shadows... Like I do on Portra. Should I keep on doing this?

 

Most times I have light enough, but when shooting inside I'd like to have like ISO 800. What developer should I pick when pushing Tri-X?

 

I'd like to have consistent results both as I overexpose or push. This might tell you more what I'm looking for: (some of my digital work with the M8)

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[StS]

I guess there is not one solution, which fits everything. D-76 developer would be the classic solution, I use T-max developer for the convenience of an liquid developer (and liquid DD-X for Ilford Delta films).

 

I'm also exposing Tri-X @ 320 and reduce development time accordingly, mainly to make sure the film scanner can handle the contrast of the negative. I have to find the time yet to calibrate my favourite films to my workflow, until then, 320 ISO gives me good results.

 

Since Tri-X is very sensitive to blue and UV, as all classic black-and-white films I typically use a light yellow or yellow-green filter for portraits.

 

Stefan

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[Guest Mr. B]

I have used many developers over the years. D-76, Rodinal, FG 7, Microdal X, and several others. I have found myself going back to D-76 1 to 1 for 10 minutes at 68 degrees. This combination works for me.

Mr. B

[sir_kane]

I used normally Tri-x with Ilford ID-11 and it gives me a very good effects, transitions tones are nice, medium grain. But I like to push Tri-X to 1600 ASA, and then use with this Ilford DD-X, gives really good results and also not too big grain. I tried once to use with Tri-x, Tetenal chemicals, but I was not happy with the results.

[Guido]

Tri-X @ 1000 ASA with Diafine (two times 4:30min) is my standard low-light / indoors combo.

[john_s]

Metering makes as much difference as develper choice. Try setting your meter on 200 or even a bit less and use a developer that retains speed (Xtol is my favorite, DDX or Microdol if I'm setting a film speed of 400). I prefer this because it tend to make facial features like eye sockets, shadows around girls' hair etc less sooty.

[Fotoklaus]

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D76, what else? Works also very good with Tmax 400 and most other Films.

[Jessestr]

Metering makes as much difference as develper choice. Try setting your meter on 200 or even a bit less and use a developer that retains speed (Xtol is my favorite, DDX or Microdol if I'm setting a film speed of 400). I prefer this because it tend to make facial features like eye sockets, shadows around girls' hair etc less sooty.

 

What do you mean by "retains speed". I've heard rodinal loses speed, never understand what people ment with it.

[klaush]

I use D-76 1+1, Film speed set on 200 ASA.

 

Regards,

Klaush

[andybarton]

HC110B

 

6 1/2 minutes

 

20C

 

6 inversions every minute

 

Tri-X rated at 320

 

Never lets me down

[philipus]

Perhaps check FilmDev | Everyone's recipes for ideas/results?

[DaCh]

What, no calls for Xtol?

Kodak introduced it as an improved D76 and it works really well.

Easy to mix, it keeps well and it’s great value for money.

Or like Andy says “HC110b”

[Julian H]

Hi Jesse

 

Some lovely images on your website!

 

Whilst I cannot offer any suggestions for development of pushed film I would like to suggest that you consider staying with Rodinal for EI320 exposed Tri-X [which is typically my normal EI, technique including metering from the shadows and working back from there].

 

Try your Rodinal dev. with less agitation [a pre-rinse is often a good idea with this technique to ensure even development] and more dilution. Also, I find a mature Rodinal to be a lot nicer than freshly opened. My current bottle I first opened some 8 years ago [i have several other opened bottles to keep me going too].

 

All the above will reduce edge effects from grain but keep that lovely glow IME. I found more success getting to know less products inside out rather than trying lots of different ones.

 

Hope that helps

Julian

[Paulus]

I use T-max for Tri-X and T max films. Works for me.You have the get accustomed to it. I think as long as you stick with one developer, you can really get to know it. Use it now for 20 years at a stretch.

[antistatic]

Shoot @ 200

D76 1+1 at 20C for 8 min.

[Stealth3kpl]

Shoot @ 200

D76 1+1 at 20C for 8 min.

 

What do you use for your HP5?

Pete

[chrism]

I don't believe pushed Tri-X will look anything like your M8 photos, so you may have to accept a new look goes along with it. Tri-X cooks very happily in Diafine rated at 1000 -1250 (don't go for the Diafine suggestion of 1600 - it's too grainy), and my other method is to do a stand development in HC-110. The Diafine will give rather flat negatives that scan well, but are less suitable for wet printing. In either case don't underexpose or you get more grain.

Be sure to let is see some results!

 

Chris

[imsilly]

Xtol is hands down best for Tri-X and T-Max.

 

Rodinal is nice for a very grainy high contrast look with lots of agitation. It's probably my favourite B&W developer for slow speed films.

 

D-76 is very outdated, it under performs vs Xtol in every way. Xtol is just a pain in the arse to mix and store. It also pushes film incredibly well.

Edited February 15, 2014 by imsilly

[andybarton]

Xtol is the best and a PITA?

 

Just use HC110B and get everything from the negative in a highly economical, long lasting, easy to use developer.

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[Brenton C]

Yowsa...

 

But why stop there?

 

Beautiful girl, beautiful pictures. Definitely fully developed for my tastes ... Errr, chemically speaking of course.