More R to Canon (picture)

[tashley]

Okay, thanks to all the advisors on this topic here: learned a great deal and am now up and running with an adaptor that feels a bit flakey but seems to work.

Thought I'd post one of the first results, taken from my deck during a storm at dusk yesterday : this is 50 R Cron on 1DsIII and I have a 20 x 30" print drying as we speak. It looks pretty nice! F4, ISO 400, 1/1000th second and then cropped a bit.

T


wildbrooks-1.jpg

That´s fine!

Dirk

[tashley]

Originally Posted by Motivfindender

That´s fine!

Dirk

Thank you Dirk. It's comforting to have lovely Leica glass on the Canon so that big sensor is sure to be properly fed!

Tim

[nikau]

I've been using focus-confirm and non-focus-confirm Leica to Canon adpaters for a couple of years now and am always impressed with the results I get from the Leica lenses, especially at larger apertures. I have three prime Canon lenses, the 24mm, 50mm f1.4 and 135mm f2L and none delivers the quality I am used to from the Leica glass. However, the Canon lenses come into their own when speed of use is important. Just an observation - don't want to start another Leica vs Canon debate.

[tashley]

Originally Posted by nikau

I've been using focus-confirm and non-focus-confirm Leica to Canon adpaters for a couple of years now and am always impressed with the results I get from the Leica lenses, especially at larger apertures. I have three prime Canon lenses, the 24mm, 50mm f1.4 and 135mm f2L and none delivers the quality I am used to from the Leica glass. However, the Canon lenses come into their own when speed of use is important. Just an observation - don't want to start another Leica vs Canon debate.

I agree - I'm getting a good selection of AF glass in L zooms and primes - and some second hand R glass. I don't really trust MF other than with Live View and 10x mag switched on, but when you do it that way the focus is amazing. Really the R glass is best suited to tripod work.

[Jamie Roberts]

Originally Posted by tashley

I agree - I'm getting a good selection of AF glass in L zooms and primes - and some second hand R glass. I don't really trust MF other than with Live View and 10x mag switched on, but when you do it that way the focus is amazing. Really the R glass is best suited to tripod work.

...or for dark hand-held dancing shots when the AF lenses, um, don't F any longer.

LOL!!! The focus-confirming adapters have always worked for me without any trouble, and without live-view. They work very well, and I'm often shooting the 80 1.4 @ 1.6 handheld while standing on a bed or something similarly unstable.

Trust the adapters, Tim. Or your eyes

[marknorton]

Pardon my ignorance, but do these adapters provide full open-aperture functionality so that you focus with the lens open and the camera stops the lens down to shoot? I assume you can only shoot manual or aperture priority so that the aperture cannot be set by the camera?

Seems to be the best use to make of Leica R glass for now until the R10 is announced.

[stunsworth]

Mark, there's no automatic linkage between the camera and the lens. So as you stop down the lens the aperture size changes and the image seen though the viewfinder changes.

Typically what I'd do is focus with the lens wide open and then stop down the lens immediately before firing the shutter. After a while it becomes second nature to know how far to turn the aperture ring without taking your eye away from the camera.

I've taken thousands of images using this method with various Canon dSLRs.

[tashley]

Originally Posted by stunsworth

Mark, there's no automatic linkage between the camera and the lens. So as you stop down the lens the aperture size changes and the image seen though the viewfinder changes.

Typically what I'd do is focus with the lens wide open and then stop down the lens immediately before firing the shutter. After a while it becomes second nature to know how far to turn the aperture ring without taking your eye away from the camera.

I've taken thousands of images using this method with various Canon dSLRs.

My technique is slightly different if using a tripod: I use Live View and focus at 10 x magnification, then stop down and re-check focus (if there's enough light). I only do this for focus-critical situations where there's plenty of time but it does allow one to adjust for any focus shift.

In my recent and limited experience (I have two adaptors, one AF confirming, and I don't trust either of them 100% but have more arriving soon) you wouldn't want to entrust an important shot with a wide open aperture to the AF confirmation feature: it is simply not accurate enough, on my setup at least, though Jamie has a different experience and certainly a different adaptor.

The other factor that I have yet to bottom out is metering, I am getting random underexposed shots and though I think I know why, it's rather long and involved and I'm just getting to the bottom of it now!

t

[tashley]

Originally Posted by Jamie Roberts

...or for dark hand-held dancing shots when the AF lenses, um, don't F any longer.

LOL!!! The focus-confirming adapters have always worked for me without any trouble, and without live-view. They work very well, and I'm often shooting the 80 1.4 @ 1.6 handheld while standing on a bed or something similarly unstable.

Trust the adapters, Tim. Or your eyes

So far both are rather hit and miss, though the hits are very cool if outnumbered!

Which adaptors do you use? Mine is ok-ish but really, to get an 80mm lens to focus at F1.4 would be way, way, way beyond its aspirations!

t

[gogopix]

for those using R's on C bodies, do you know if any of the Canon AA filters can be removed? I suspect THAT is the cause of a lot of loss of 3 dimensionality.

For any color casts, I am sure a profile or cut filter might work better. That said, I never use a filter and Jamies profiles are very good at magenta masking!

Victor

[sdai]

Originally Posted by gogopix

for those using R's on C bodies, do you know if any of the Canon AA filters can be removed? I suspect THAT is the cause of a lot of loss of 3 dimensionality.

In short, the answer is NO but there are wacky businesses charging several hundred bucks doing this on the web.

The loss of 3D is not due to the AA filter ... it's more because of the sophisticated/excessive on-board signal processing in the sensor assembly.

Consequences, if you paid those shady businesses to do this, you'll get screwed up with IR, white balance, etc.