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Any tips for shooting the moon with a D2?


mark_a_h

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As a fellow D2 owner, I can say, you will likely get a better shot from either the International Space Station, or buying a Digilux2-to-Hubble telescope adaptor. (you can probably find one of these on ebay or the street markets in Shanghai !!!).

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Sorry, I should not be so frivolous with my poor sense of humour.

 

One thing I have found in the deep west of Australia while I shoot regularly. The moon often appears 4x-to-6x larger just after sunset, AND when the moon is low on the horizon in the east.

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I've had the best luck with the moon at twilight times, and with phases other than the full disc. A tripod would be good obviously, but handheld is possible with a brighter moon. You won't get much magnification of the surface detail with the D2, and the digital zoom doesn't produce very good results. The best use of the D2 with moon shots I think might be where the moon is in context with some landscape element. Here's one from northern Wisconsin from about a year ago:

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Dingoes, Dugby, Dingoes!

 

1. Bear in mind that the surface of the full moon is getting exactly the same amount of light as the Earth does at noon - sun the same distance away, straight overhead. So a 'correct' exposure at ISO 100 would be 1/100th at f/16 or thereabouts.

 

HOWEVER - the actual color of the moon is a darkish gray-brown (about like your average rocks anywhere), so that's how it will appear given that "correct" exposure. To get the 'silvery' look you need to overexpose a bit. Use the magic of digital to try some brackets 1, 2, and 3 stops over and see what you're getting.

 

2. The moon is not actually bigger near the horizon, that's an optical illusion. With the Digilux's max. zoom of 90mm the moon will be a small part of the frame, so having something else in the picture and having a little light in the sky, as Johnjs shows so well, is a good idea. Even a few clouds can be an enhancement, although obviously we will hope you don't get a full overcast that night!

 

3. The moon is 250,000 miles from Earth (average). The ISS is 250 miles from Earth. So shooting from the ISS would make the Moon look about 0.1% larger. But there would be less atmospheric interference.

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Dingoes, Dugby, Dingoes!

 

Since an incident almost 30 years ago, the Australian Supreme Court ruled that Dingoes prefer younger meat..... so I guess I'm safer (....sadly).

 

3. The moon is 250,000 miles from Earth (average). The ISS is 250 miles from Earth. So shooting from the ISS would make the Moon look about 0.1% larger. But there would be less atmospheric interference.

Agreed, it's the significantly reduced affect of atmospheric distortion as to why the Hubble Telescope is 350 miles from Earth......

 

Whilst we're on the topic of the moon, one can get the best detail of the moon's surface if you zoom right into http://moon.google.com/

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Depends on the kind of moon shots you want. With a D2 it's going to be lots of scenery and a tiny moon. Even with the 420mm lens on my FZ30 the moon is fairly small. To get a full frame moon you need a lot of magnification. I used a 1000mm telescope with a 36mm eyepiece and a Leicaflex hanging off the end to get a full frame shot. With the FZ30, I mount the camera directly against the eyepiece, at full zoom to avoid vignetting. A good exposure would be 1/250 at f/5.6 or f/8 with ISO 100 which is similar to Adan's example. I can't get f/16 with the FZ30, and in any case the lens is diffraction limited at all apertures, so f/5.6 is probably the optimum.

 

Bryan

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I used my FZ-10 at full extention for this photo. This was taken at the Spring Solstice . . . at moon rise . . . the moon seems much bigger at this time of year on the Canadian Prairie. I used this photo on the IBD Manitoba web site . . . the building is the research centre here in Winnipeg.

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Mark,

 

Andy said it all, except that you can practice now for then. And, of course, you get to see what you shot right after you did it, so how can you miss? Don't you love (1) digital, and (2) the D2!!!

 

Tripod, suds, bug repellant, these are more important. Pack your kit carefully.

 

And, give us a look-see when you're done -- thanks in advance.

 

Regards, Bill

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Rubbish, it's the spiders that you _really_ have to look out for in Oz. Killer kangaroos are tame in comparison ;-)

 

sorry to correct you: it's the snakes! 7, or 8, or 9 or even 10 of the 10 most poisonous snakes live in australia! link with some info

 

au_pc_warningsign_in.jpg

 

great thread this one, anyway: interesting facts about moon-photography mixed with fantastica aussie humor! :D

 

g'nite!

eT

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yes, lots of good facts on moonshots and australian lies.

 

It's a little hard to believe you can't get at least some moon detail with the D2's "digital" zoom and a cropped full frame shot that wouldn't be high quality, but more just for fun. there are cheaper point and shoot cameras out there doing it.

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When I first glanced at the title of this thread I thought someone was taking the p*ss and asking for Leica camera advice for a trip to the moon.

 

:)

 

outch, that was a painfull one: hasselblad has been up there ... leica lenses do not fit. :confused:

 

eT

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yes, lots of good facts on moonshots and australian lies.

 

It's a little hard to believe you can't get at least some moon detail with the D2's "digital" zoom

 

If one thing is for sure: forget about any in-camera 'digital' zoom!!!

 

better shoot 'as if' you'd be using a stronger telelenns (ie. avoid shaking, shorter exposure time, etc.) and center the object of interest ... but do any, yes any, cropping [=digital zooming] later on the computer!!!

 

andreas feininger used to tell us these 'poor man's tele-lens trick'!

and it's better to apply this technique with a good short lens than a bad long one!

 

 

eT

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This is the DMR + Telyt 6,8/400mm and it works....

 

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Jan

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