Developing Tri-X in D76

[Annibale G.]

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Anyone can tell his/her own developing tipe for Kodak Tri-X in D76? Just to cross-check with mine.

 

Kodak Tri - X 400 in 400 asa Developing time: 11:30

kodak Tri - X 400 pushed 800 asa Developing time : 13:00

 

 

I'm also trying to find a correct time for Kodak T- Max 400 pushed at 400 , 800, 1600,3200. Developed in D76 as well. If you know, I'm pleased to get the correct time.

Bye

Annibale

[stunsworth]

Annibale, I always start here for developing times...

 

The Massive Dev Chart: B/W Film Development Times, Processing Data

 

Gives you a starting point if nothing else.

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[AlexEs]

First, I used the standard times, you can find them inside the filmbox: D76 1:1, 9:45

 

But I was not satiesfied with the results and found an advice at the Kodak-homepage. Kodakt says: "You can develop one 135-3 roll (80 square inches) in 473 mL (16 ounces) or two rolls together in 946 mL (one quart) of diluted developer. If you process one 135-36 roll in a 237 mL (8-ounce) tank or two 135-36 rolls in a 473 mL (16-ounce) tank, increase the development time by 10 percent."

 

Now I develop the Tri-X like this: D76 1:1, 10:40. The results are much better. So, for the T-Max 400 I do it in the same way: 10 percent more... D76 1:1, 13:45

 

Good luck, Alex

[AlexEs]

The links

 

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4043/f4043.pdf?id=0.2.26.14.17.14.18&lc=en

 

KODAK PROFESSIONAL D-76 Developer: Tech Pub J-78

 

KODAK PROFESSIONAL TRI-X Films

[Annibale G.]

Well I use mainly a couple of tank : one is 450ml and the other is 950ml.

Could I consider the 450ml the smaller one and the 950ml the bigger one?

Annibale

[AlexEs]

For both of your tanks I would use the standard times for D76 1:1, I mean 9:45, maybe 15-30 seconds more, so you have to try...

After a few rolls you will find your way, because a lot of things can influences the developing-process, for instance here in Berlin we have very hard water, so the watering takes much more time.

[MHoth]

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is a jobo 2523 tank (with 1300ml developer) a large tank according the kodak technical data sheet?

 

best

[Jeff S]

Development times vary based on one's equipment, meter, development and agitation procedure, etc. Back in the day, I used to follow Fred Picker's development time test. But that was only after I determined my own personal film speed using another of his tests; these usually resulted in shooting Tri-X at around 320 or so, but even that varied by camera, since shutters were different between cameras. Then it was on to various print tests. Conclusion...what works for others may not work for you; the key is consistency based on one's own key variables.

 

Ah, those were the days.

 

Jeff

[Eastgreenlander]

I develope tri x 400, ISO 400 = D76 1:1 in 9.0 minutes. This is what I find the best time for scanning.

 

Leica MP + voigtlander 35mm F1.2

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But shooting tri x at ISO 200 and developing 8:30 minutes is spectacular.

 

 

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Edited March 17, 2013 by Eastgreenlander

[antistatic]

I shoot Tri-X @ 200 and develop it in D76 1+1 20C for 8:00 minutes.

 

Four agitations to start then one every 30 seconds.

[mobirobo1]

For both of your tanks I would use the standard times for D76 1:1, I mean 9:45, maybe 15-30 seconds more, so you have to try...

After a few rolls you will find your way, because a lot of things can influences the developing-process, for instance here in Berlin we have very hard water, so the watering takes much more time.

 

 

and what do you do besides watering for a long time? do you actually use longer dev times? I found that that does not make a difference for me.

 

i have similar problems with hard water here in CH and I am now experimenting with filtered (brita) water. I let it soak in there for a few minutes before I give it a final rinse with wetting agent (diluted in filtered water)

[Cedric Agie de Selsaeten]

Anyone can tell his/her own developing tipe for Kodak Tri-X in D76? Just to cross-check with mine.

 

Kodak Tri - X 400 in 400 asa Developing time: 11:30

kodak Tri - X 400 pushed 800 asa Developing time : 13:00

 

 

I'm also trying to find a correct time for Kodak T- Max 400 pushed at 400 , 800, 1600,3200. Developed in D76 as well. If you know, I'm pleased to get the correct time.

Bye

Annibale

 

See Steve Anchell's books. Pushing T-Max films is differend. These films have special sensitive couplers that determine the speed of the film. In my opinion you better buy T-Max films with the speed you wish. You will have better results, that's what these films are made for.

 

And concerning "so called pushing" B&W classic neg films, don't expect too much when you go over 800 or 1200 ASA.

[j. borger]

Iso 400 or 800 : 10 minutes in D76 1+1.

Thta's nice about D76. Tmax and Trix have the same developing time for iso 400 or 800

[tobey bilek]

The correct time has to be determined by experimentation. Table and others results only are a start points. Why? Water is different. Thermometers may differ. Some agitate every 30 seconds, some every 60. Some use inefficient agitation and get "surge marks" which is a result of incomplete replenishment in areas of the film. Some use condenser enlargers, other diffusion, diffusion requiring a more contrasty neg. Some lenses have more contrast than others ,both taking and enlarging, scanners also differ. Shutter accuracy is also a factor. Enlarging papers differ.

 

So you have to start somewhere. I find Kodak or Ilford times perfect, right on the money for a diffusion enlarger. I take great pains to see that every bit of my equipment is right on spec. Shutter checkers and thermometers are all calibrated. Condenser time is reduced 10% The time difference between 60 and 30 sec agitation cycles is 10%.

 

So now how do you know what s correct? First is detail in the shadows. If there is no detail, you need more exposure. You want the least exposure that puts sufficient exposure in the shadows. You can get crazy and use a densitometer. Or just use someones car tires in sunlight. or black shutters on a house in the sun. Film speeds are tested and are correct. Unknown are your meters and shutters

 

The other variable is contrast . Print for proper black. Now look at a white. If you have a grey white, more time in developer is required. If you have no detail in the white and it is blocked up, cut time and try again.

 

So the start time for a condenser enlarger with a print targeted to #2 paper or scanning, is D76 1:1 9.5 minutes at 68 deg, agitation at 30 second intervals.

 

I have no idea what watering the neg is , but if it is presoaking, don`t do it. If you do, you need more time. The only negs you presoak are sheet films that you hand agitate by interleaving so they do not stick. Ifford specifically recommends against as it washes out chemicals that promote even absorption of developer .

 

Second 800 iso is under exposure. You can not recover insufficient exposure by developing longer. You can partially make up for it with more contrast, but the shadows will still be empty and black . Diafine will get you shadow detail up to 1250. D76 will not. That is just how things are and you can not change them.

 

Now have fun. Do 12 exposures and develop 20" of film as a test. Adjust from there.

Just use some test subject that you can return to time and again. A grey scale in studio conditions is best and I have been doing it for 50+ years that way. Weather outside is too variable. Be sure to allow for bellows factor if you do close ups or you will too slow a film speed and when you go outside, you will over expose. Behind the lens meters automatically make allowance. Just meter a 12 to 18 % grey area or use an incident meter.

[StS]

and what do you do besides watering for a long time? do you actually use longer dev times? I found that that does not make a difference for me.

 

i have similar problems with hard water here in CH and I am now experimenting with filtered (brita) water. I let it soak in there for a few minutes before I give it a final rinse with wetting agent (diluted in filtered water)

 

It could be, that Alex does not follow this thread any more, his comment was written five years ago...

 

Sometimes, extremely old threads pop up again....

 

Back on topic, I use DI water for everything but rinsing. For the last rinse, I use DI water with wetting agent.

 

Stefan