Problem with enlarger-HELP!!!!

[Colin1974]

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I've got a Durst C35 enlarger. The focus knob turns, but there is no focusing action. Is there any way of fixing this?

 

Colin.

[Jeff S]

You just bought this, right? From where, and under what terms?

 

Jeff

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[250swb]

Is there a lock for the focus mechanism? Has the focus knob been forced and perhaps stripped any plastic ribs that often engage onto a splined shaft, in which case the height adjustment knob looks like the same fit, swap it over to try, then you know the part you need to replace.

 

Steve

[Colin1974]

Thanks for all the advice.

I've solved the problem: I smeared a little butter up and down the focusing rods, and the mechanism works fine now.

I'm almost ready to go with my darkroom: all I've got to get now are the chemicals and printing paper, then the learning curve can begin.

Wish me luck!

 

 

All the best, Colin.

[Michael Hiles]

Colin,

 

Your learning curve could be much easier if you get a DVD from Calumet called Calumet Black & White Film Photography - 3 Digitally Remastered Fred Picker Videos on 1 DVD. It is $39.85 and is a very good instructional video on B&W photography, in particular printing. Fred was a master printer, and his technique set out in the video is as solid as it gets and follows logical steps to quickly get to a good print.

 

Oh, and get yourself some variable contrast paper and filters. Ilford Multigrade is terrific. Don't waste time and money on boxes of graded paper.

 

Also, if you are inclined to print the whole negative, start with 11x14 inch paper. The whole 35mm negative comes out as 9.6x14 - a nce size. Alternatively if you want a smaller print, cut the 11x14 into two 7x11. Better than 8x10, where either you loose some of your image, or you get a quite small print. Don't give up some of your image by making 8x10s.

Edited December 12, 2013 by Michael Hiles

[aesop]

Thanks for all the advice.

I've solved the problem: I smeared a little butter up and down the focusing rods, and the mechanism works fine now.

I'm almost ready to go with my darkroom: all I've got to get now are the chemicals and printing paper, then the learning curve can begin.

Wish me luck!

 

 

All the best, Colin.

 

 

...hmmm, I would take some time out to look into the efficacy of employing butter as a long-term lubricant if I were you, Colin. Other than that, it looks like all is well.

[AlanG]

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Salted or sweet butter?

[stonearabiapix]

You might try some white lubricant in the future.

The butter in time will get rancid and could drip on your prints and make them stink. And you dont want people telling you your prints stink.

[tobey bilek]

use proper lube and clean off the junk.

 

Gun oil or sewing machine oil will work. use a very light coat.

 

There are about 4 ports to lube the parallelogram. Gun oil will keep them working. I have a brand in orange plastic bottle, Hopps brand I think

 

Any place that sells guns will have it like Dicks Sporting Goods, Walmart, etc

 

Car oils are detergent and not as good.

[Richardgb]

Colin,

<snip>

Oh, and get yourself some variable contrast paper and filters. Ilford Multigrade is terrific. Don't waste time and money on boxes of graded paper.

<snip>

 

Multigrade papers undoubtably save paper storage and stocks, but it is an exaggeration to say using graded papers is a 'waste'.

 

Papers, like film, have their own characteristics - some give crisp highlights, other better shadows and so on. The old Ilfobrom and Multigrade papers were as different as chalk and cheese in this respect, likewise differences between paper brands (not that nowadays there's much choice). And some papers match certain films better than others - this, if course, is what makes the game so interesting.

 

Of course, when starting off printing there's a lot to think about, and one way to economize is by using multigrade. However, with a little experience you'll quickly find most of your prints are on a small range of grades. At this stage, go ahead and buy a small pack of fixed grade paper in that range and compare the results.

 

Yes, multigrade does allow you to vary the contrast in different areas of the print, but this is a refinement which is more talked about than exploited. Dodging and shading are much more valuable skills.

[Broadside]

Indeed, a properly exposed and developed negative should () print perfectly on Grade 2 paper.

[Jeff S]

Indeed, a properly exposed and developed negative should () print perfectly on Grade 2 paper.

 

No such thing as 'perfect' except as the photographer determines based on tastes and preferences for any given scene. A low contrast scene, for instance, might be printed on a low contrast paper to preserve the 'softer' feeling, or alternatively on a higher contrast paper to introduce 'missing' contrast.

 

And the above speaks only to global contrast; one might determine that different parts of the image require different treatment.

 

No right or wrong, let alone 'perfect' exposures...or prints. How boring that would be.

 

Jeff

[Michael Hiles]

Multigrade papers undoubtably save paper storage and stocks, but it is an exaggeration to say using graded papers is a 'waste'.

 

Papers, like film, have their own characteristics - some give crisp highlights, other better shadows and so on. The old Ilfobrom and Multigrade papers were as different as chalk and cheese in this respect, likewise differences between paper brands (not that nowadays there's much choice). And some papers match certain films better than others - this, if course, is what makes the game so interesting.

 

Of course, when starting off printing there's a lot to think about, and one way to economize is by using multigrade. However, with a little experience you'll quickly find most of your prints are on a small range of grades. At this stage, go ahead and buy a small pack of fixed grade paper in that range and compare the results.

 

Yes, multigrade does allow you to vary the contrast in different areas of the print, but this is a refinement which is more talked about than exploited. Dodging and shading are much more valuable skills.

 

Fair comment. I don't denigrate graded papers - but there was a time (in ancient days) when multigrade papers were second best in terms of the final result. That is no longer true. I use Ilford Multi-grade IV because I really like the results, which in my view can be favourably compared with graded papers. The convenience of filters instead of many boxes is a pleasant incidental. The vast majority of my negatives are XP2, and they print beautifully on Ilford Multi-grade. Perhaps that is not an accident. Dodging and burning are, I agree, indispensible skills needed to produce an outstanding print that exudes some emotional presence.

Edited April 5, 2014 by Michael Hiles

[Broadside]

Oh how I miss Agfa Record-Rapid.

[dgc]

Your learning curve could be much easier if you get a DVD from Calumet called Calumet Black & White Film Photography - 3 Digitally Remastered Fred Picker Videos on 1 DVD. It is $39.85 and is a very good instructional video on B&W photography, in particular printing. Fred was a master printer, and his technique set out in the video is as solid as it gets and follows logical steps to quickly get to a good print.

 

Thanks for this - does anybody know if this DVD is available in the UK ? A google search didn't find anything.

 

David

Edited April 29, 2014 by dgc

[Jeff S]

Thanks for this - does anybody know if this DVD is available in the UK ? A google search didn't find anything.

 

Maybe because Calumet recently declared bankruptcy, although there are reports that a buyer might have emerged. Fred is no longer with us, and he made the original 3 videos over 20 years ago, so video copies or dvd compilation might be scarce.

 

Jeff