developing inconsistency ?

[SiMPLiFY]

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I need some help and am wondering if someone could either diagnose my problem or refer me to a forum that specializes in darkroom. There seems to be a lot of film people here so this is my starting point in seeking assistance.

 

here

 

I have posted samples here

 

feeling beaten but not defeated.

listening to supertramp - it's raining again.

 

Thank you.

[andybarton]

Firstly, go to the Massive Development Chart Digitaltruth Photo - The Massive Dev Chart B&W Film Development Database and you will see times for virtually every black and white film and every suitable developer.

 

Use these as a starting point.

 

And make up some stock solution of HC110-B, or -E, so that you don't need to measure out to the ml every time you process. Even the stock solution lasts for weeks.

 

FWIW, I process my Tri-X for 6:30 mins, at 20C, in HC110-B, rating the film at 320, not 400. Works every time.

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[MPerson]

Andy - I thought you used Dil H as well.

[SiMPLiFY]

I actually got the time from digital truth. I'll try ( as a next step. I'm at a loss. I have Massive Dev on my iPod Touch.

 

FWIW, I process my Tri-X for 6:30 mins, at 20C, in HC110-B, rating the film at 320, not 400. Works every time.

 

If it works every time then it's worth a lot! Thank You!

[andybarton]

Andy - I thought you used Dil H as well.

 

I used Dil-E for some PanF+ this afternoon, but 90% of the time I use Dil-B

[SiMPLiFY]

I used Dil-E for some PanF+ this afternoon, but 90% of the time I use Dil-B

 

Beautiful! I want to do that! I bookmarked your site when you responded to my M2 with a website question. I really admire you and your work! Wishing you and your family all the best.

 

Meanwhile, I will keep at it and maybe someday reach a similar level of vision and talent.

[andybarton]

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Beautiful! I want to do that!

 

Thanks

 

If I can do it - you can too. Honest!

 

You just need to persevere, be prepared to make mistakes and when you find a system that works for you, stick to it.

 

It's very tempting (and fun ) to try lots of different films and developer combinations, so it's important to keep a record of what you have done with each film, how it was processed etc. Then, when you achieve the kind of thing that you want, you will be able to remember what you did the last time.

[CalArts 99]

Don't forget the adage: "exposure controls density and development controls contrast."

 

Some of the negatives look a bit thin (esp the back-lit kitchen image.) As Andy points out try exposing the Tri-X at 320 ISO. One way of testing is to expose the roll in thirds on the same subject (e.g. ISO 400, 320, and 200.) Then develop carefully just like you've been doing (and with an emphasis on being consistent in your technique.)

 

Once you have figured your film speed that works for you (dense enough negatives) you can adjust your agitation to increase contrast. Just be sure to be consistent and pay close attention to your agitation technique. Increasing agitation will increase contrast. But keep the intensity of the agitation the same (very gentle) just adjust the number of rotations and flips.

 

After a couple of test rolls, you'll have it all down and it will easy from there on in.

 

btw, here's a classic text on B+W: Amazon.com: Black and White Photography: A Basic Manual (9780316373142): Henry Horenstein, Carol Keller: Books

 

Horenstein has been teaching at RISD for decades.

[SiMPLiFY]

I have Henry Horenstein's 3rd edition. I'm going to do as you suggest tomorrow when I can free up half a day and set up controlled lighting conditions. Kodak has an article explaining this procedure "Black-and-White Tips and Techniques for Darkroom Enthusiasts"

 

Kodak 40 page .pdf

 

I'll get there, eventually.

[Larcomb]

I need some help and am wondering if someone could either diagnose my problem or refer me to a forum that specializes in darkroom. There seems to be a lot of film people here so this is my starting point in seeking assistance.

 

here

 

I have posted samples here

 

feeling beaten but not defeated.

listening to supertramp - it's raining again.

 

Thank you.

 

Remember that a negative is much lower in contrast than a good print. When a negative looks too flat it's probably about right.

[SiMPLiFY]

I finally figured out what I am doing wrong.

 

I have studied my negatives against those in books and I see plenty of detail etc …

 

My exposures and developing techniques were fine. I was looking in the wrong place for the problem. I use a digital camera as a copy machine so I can have one RAW file on my computer with nondestructive editing abilities and one smallish file to store of each negative image.

 

I kept adjusting exposure BACKWARDS! When shooting negative film in order to get a brighter image I needed to use - compensation (white=black). For a darker image I will need to use + compensation (black=white). I have a small lamp reflecting light off of a white sheet of paper to photograph my negatives and my exposure thinking was reversed. It’s very different when shooting negative film and I forgot to adjust my brain.

 

My AI-S lens does not meter or focus on my camera so I really need to think about this and standardize this procedure as well. I also may need to add more light because with the light I have exposures are running 6 seconds at ISO 100 f/8.

 

Now I need to go back and re-digitize 6 of the 8 rolls I’ve shot so far. Then I can proceed as I was prior to the freak out and hopefully have more than one select print to show for my efforts.

 

PHEW! <blush>

 

Now I want to learn to shoot tethered. My computer is in the kitchen so when someone walks through and flips a light switch my speeds are off.

[Messsucherkamera]

I didn't see this mentioned above so I will throw this out. Always mix your chemicals using distilled water. The chemicals and impurities in tap water can cause problems with your negatives.

 

A friend of mine complained that his Tri-X negatives were too grainy, moreso than they had been in the past before he moved.

 

I asked him if he was mixing his chemicals with distilled water, to which he replied "no." Whatever is in the water at his new home was screwing with the grain of his Tri-X during developing.

 

He began using distilled water and has had no more problems with his developing.