Rangefinder out of alignment suddenly

[Pindy]

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First of all, a very happy Christmas and New Year to you all.

 

I noticed today that my M6 TTL's RF didn't perfectly coincide at infinity focus. Usually, I'm used to it crossing perfectly at infinity, and even a little further. Today, objects at infinity (say, 75ft away or more) came within a hair of coinciding but no further. The camera has not endured any kind of rough handling or knocks and didn't behave this way when I bought it about a month ago.

 

I still have my friend's M6 TTL and the identical lens to my own, a 35mm Summilux ASPH. When I swapped lenses, I didn't see any difference; in other words, his lens and my lens behaved the same way on each of our cameras. I did notice, however, that the little roller that couples the lens to the RF on his M6 protrudes maybe a millimeter or so further out of the mount than mine does, I suppose which means that his has a farther range of travel before it hits the little nut inside that stops the movement, which seems to explain everything. Have I got this right?

 

I suppose my question is: how offset could my focus accuracy be in this case? Is the camera not worth using at wide apertures until I can get it adjusted?

 

Again, peace on earth, good will toward men (in the Anglo-Saxon sense)

[Guest mc_k]

...The camera has not endured any kind of rough handling or knocks and didn't behave this way when I bought it about a month ago...

 

I knocked mine out of alignment just by mounting a lens. I wouldn't shoot anything except some test shots.

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[Pindy]

Gonna call Steve Choi on Monday.

 

Can anybody confirm: In testing infinity focus, should "infinity" be at the lens' stopping point, or on the infinity symbol (the figure-eight sideways marking)? I've often wondered why there's extra play beyond that marking.

[Guest mc_k]

far as I know coincidence should be at both the infinity mark and the stopping point.

 

There was a recent thread about the Super Elmar and this topic.

[christer]

75 ft isn't infinity.

 

The moon is.

[Pindy]

75 ft isn't infinity.

 

The moon is.

 

Accurate though that may be, if you can't make 75ft away coincident in the RF, you're well screwed, aren't you?

[jhild]

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Depending on the lens infinity is at different distances from the camera. However, check the feeler arm

if it´s loose or not.Check your rangefinder with another lens, hope you have one. If it´s still not getting to

infinity and the feeler arm is not loose it´s quite easy to realign it again provided your misalignment is

vertical. All you need is a screwdriver that fits in the slot at the feelerarm´s wheel, but turn it only in very

small steps. Try clockwise first, if it´s getting better carry on, if not try anti-clockwise. While doing this

support the feelerarm from underneath to make sure you don´t bend it.

If that´s to much for you give the camera to a repairshop, it´s a short and cheap job.

Apart from all this, when set to infinity the feelerarm is not supposed to hit the stop screw in front of the

shutterblinds.

 

Cheers

 

Jo

[earleygallery]

Accurate though that may be, if you can't make 75ft away coincident in the RF, you're well screwed, aren't you?

 

Do you mean that you get the rangefinder images to overlap at all? If so then yes it appears that it is out of alignment.

[Pindy]

Precisely. Objects as near as 75ft away cannot overlap.

[Pindy]

Jo, great info. The arm isn't loose, but seems to be restricted in it's range of motion. Gonna have it sorted later this week.

[magd0328]

Probably wise to get it sorted. If part of the mechanism is loose and the focus point is drifting you should get it checked out. It may not be too bad now, but if it isn't stable you could knock the camera and completely lose alignment at any moment. And it is bound to happen at the worst possible time, these things always seem to...

[jhild]

Hi Pindy,

 

something else you can check is whether the feeler arm is touching the bayonet. When you move the feeler

arm you can see that there is very little space between it and the inner part of the bayonet.(Place to check

is just above the axle of the feelerarm wheel).I have had this on several M´s in the past.The feelerarm can

be bend with a special tool, that´s something described in original Leica repair manuals.However, if this is

true it´s a job for a professional, not DIY.

The reason for a bend feelerarm could be a lens forced into the bayonet. I am always very careful when

changing lenses and I always set the lens to the closest possible distance before I attach it to the camera.

If one tries to attach a lens and the lens is at an angle the part of the lens operating the feelerarm could actually get underneath the feelerarm and bend it upwards if one doesn´t realise what´s going on.If the lens

is set to infinity the rangefinder- part of it sticks out as far as possible and something like above becomes

more likely as if the lens is set to closest possible distance.

Sorry for the rough description, I could much better explain that in German.

 

Cheers

 

Jo

Edited December 27, 2009 by jhild
Rechtschreibung

[Pindy]

Hi Pindy,

 

something else you can check is whether the feeler arm is touching the bayonet. When you move the feeler

arm you can see that there is very little space between it and the inner part of the bayonet.(Place to check

is just above the axle of the feelerarm wheel).I have had this on several M´s in the past.The feelerarm can

be bend with a special tool, that´s something described in original Leica repair manuals.However, if this is

true it´s a job for a professional, not DIY.

The reason for a bend feelerarm could be a lens forced into the bayonet. I am always very careful when

changing lenses and I always set the lens to the closest possible distance before I attach it to the camera.

If one tries to attach a lens and the lens is at an angle the part of the lens operating the feelerarm could actually get underneath the feelerarm and bend it upwards if one doesn´t realise what´s going on.If the lens

is set to infinity the rangefinder- part of it sticks out as far as possible and something like above becomes

more likely as if the lens is set to closest possible distance.

Sorry for the rough description, I could much better explain that in German.

 

Cheers

 

Jo

 

I Looked and there is a small distance between the wheel and the bayonet mounting ring (maybe a millimeter or two?) and that part seems correct, so no chafing or the idea that it's got in the way of something between the lens and the mount. The wheel itself doesn't protrude from the mount quite as much as my borrowed specimen, so I think that's where the trouble lies. I'm going to do the MP VF upgrade whilst the camera is in the shop, so it should be not only fixed but improved!

[Pindy]

Probably wise to get it sorted. If part of the mechanism is loose and the focus point is drifting you should get it checked out. It may not be too bad now, but if it isn't stable you could knock the camera and completely lose alignment at any moment. And it is bound to happen at the worst possible time, these things always seem to...

 

It makes me mindful of just how mechanical these things are, and how prone to mis-calibration.

[jhild]

well, without having seen the camera all I can say/suggest is what I´ve said. The MP rangefinder upgrade

certainly is a good idea, I´ve had that done with one of my TTL´s as well.

Speaking about the rangefinder itself, it´s a really micro mechanic devise indeed, more as 140 parts fitted

together by hand. Tolerances are tight but studying it I think it can stand a lot. Why some rangefinders

do sometimes suddenly need adjustment is something quite strange but it happens.

Looking at the older M3 rangefinders I have a feeling their built quality is better and more sturdy as those

from M4P onwards but that doesn´t help much.

So enjoy your M once it´s back with the MP finder.

 

Happy New Year

 

Jo

[Pindy]

Glad to say it's at Steve's Cameras in Culver City. I should hear back in about 10 days-2 weeks.