Originally Posted by Etruscello
Reply to Kdemas --
Earlier this year, someone asked me about my experience with the 16mm Hologon G on the M8. Below is my reply to him. I think it answers all your questions and then some. As you'll see below -- you now have an exceptional lens. Tom Pastorello
Copy of earlier email on 16mm Hologon (G to M conversion and with code):
My intention is not to recommend nor discourage your buying a Zeiss 16mm Hologon f8.0 G for your Leica M8. I’ll tell you my experiences with it on my M8 and you can decide for yourself.
Over 10 years ago, I bought the Hologon for my M6. The Contax G version had been selling for almost $2,000 dollars at the time. I bought one that had been converted from G- to M-Mount by Don Goldberg of DAG. For the conversion, I paid about a $500 premium. You could probably find a mint used converted one now for about $1600. DAG would charge $130 for M8 coding. I’d Check KEH or Don himself at DAG, who may have coded lenses ready for sale. Don’s coding is very professional looking and, in addition, he also modifies the Hologon to allow full reading of the light meter on the M8 for automatic exposure on the M8 “A” setting.
I had no regrets about my expensive purchase. The Hologon performed superbly on the M6. It comes with a 4x Graduated filter to prevent vignetting. This effectively changes the f8 aperture to almost f16. This is essentially an outdoor lens. Because it is distortion-less, it can be used for architecture photography indoors, but one must obviously use a tripod. (The lens is made in Germany; the filter in Japan.)
A few months ago, I had DAG code my Hologon as a WATE. When the WATE menu comes up, I set the cyan correction for “21mm” – for a better correction than “16mm” gives. I do NOT get a full correction for cyan in the corners, regardless of my WATE setting. I think this is because I am unable to use an IR Cut filter and the 4x Graduated filter at the same time. It is one or the other. Without the 4x Graduated filter, the Hologon vignettes more than the WATE and, therefore, is not fully corrected in the corners by the M8 firmware program. I am able to correct the corners quite successfully in Adobe CS3 post-processing. I mount the 67 IR Cut filter by means of a 62-67 step-up ring. I place sticky-back rubbery strips around the inside of the ring so that I can push the ring with the filter onto the hood. It remains on firmly.
Because I have a CV 15mm f4.5 that corrects very well for cyan corners, I seldom use the Hologon for color. (I use the Milich hood adapter with 39mm IR Cut filter, as well as his coded screw-to-M adapter coded for WATE. I set the WATE menu to 21mm, not 16mm, for best correction. At this setting, the correction is perfect). I’m very pleased with the CV 15mm. It performs beautifully for color on the M8.
I continue to the Hologon 16mm on my M8 for B&W. I use the 4x Graduated filter and, because it is coded, I also set the M8 menu to Lens Detection ON, to further reduce the vignetting. With these 2 methods, there is NO vignetting of the Hologon on the M8. The B&W results are stunningly beautiful. Contrast and tonality are top-notch. Although I do not do color work with the Hologon, I still use my 62-67 step-up ring -- to mount a Dark IR filter for infrared B&W work. The M8 is great for infrared B&W because it has a very weak IR filter over its sensor (hence the need for IR Cut filters). I set the menu for Lens Detection ON, because I am unable to use the 4x Graduated Filter. I get great infrared B&W with no noticeable vignetting, thanks to the coding for lens detection.
Well, that’s my experience in a nutshell. Let me know if you have follow-up questions. Good luck with your M8 wide-angle photography.
Tom Pastorello
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