M9 sensor cleaning

[Paul J]

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Crazy, right?

 

Although there are times when you get seriously baked on long term grit. I've had it before and scratched my sensor trying to get it off. So there are certain circumstances I would probably use this.

 

Also, to add to convo. I would never again use those lens pens. Not only do they coat the sensor in their so called grit eliminating carbon but I actually scratched my sensor with it or when using it. Even before I scratched it I found it made the situation worse with the junk it leaves behind. The scratch is not visible in the photos but even still it was possibly the worst money I've spent on something that was suppose to help not create more of a problem.

Edited March 6, 2012 by Paul J

[Jean-Michel]

Hi,

Dust happens. My simple way to deal with it: "sensor clean", Visible Dust loupe, blower, loupe, if needed Visible Bust Artic Butterfly brush. I have not had to use swabs on the M9. I use the same method on my Canon 5D2; with my 5D it was much more tedious, with repeated swabs... I expected the M9 to be more dust prone than it is. It only takes a couple of minutes at the end of the day to check the sensor and clean it if need be.

Jean-Michel

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[SJP]

<snip> It only takes a couple of minutes at the end of the day to check the sensor and clean it if need be.

At the end of the day or did you mean month/year?

 

I have not found any reason to clean my sensor more than once every couple of months, probably less frequently still. If I do clean in most cases the arctic butterfly is enough - wet cleaning with IPA and swabs was a long time ago.

 

It depends on how frequently you change lenses I guess. My 50/1.4 summilux ASPH has been a (semi)permanent fixture for quite some time (on M8). Probably because I am still learning how to use it properly. Wide open is a 3D mental challenge & I am still trying to get the aesthetics right.

[jaapv]

My M9 is getting on to two and a half years now - I do change lenses regularly - but still my last sensor clean was in beginning November. Somehow with age dust gets less.

[squarenegs]

.....Somehow with age dust gets less.

 

Jaap

 

So true in my experience with two aged M8 bodies. But I think the problem diminishes with age

only because much of what we call "dust" is actually oily crap coughed up by the shutter.

Accordingly, most all of the "dust' I've encountered can be removed only with a wet cleaning.

A blower alone just never seems to work.

 

Best regards to all on the Forum

[SJP]

True I had to wet clean my M8 about once every 2 months or so in the first year, but the frequency clearly diminished as time proceeded and dry (brush) clean seem to be sufficient nowadays in all or nearly all cases..

[wlaidlaw]

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I was walking past the Mayfair Leica store yesterday and dropped into ask about a few things. As you do. They said they offer a one day sensor cleaning service at about £70 on site.

 

Let's say it takes them 10 minutes on average and 2 wands at trade price of £1.50 each, that's £402/hour labour rate. I would imagine that would make even having a Ferrari serviced look cheap.

 

Wilson

[wlaidlaw]

I got my M9 very wet in Barbados in January, when I got caught in an unexpected tropical downpour, without a camera bag (it was supposed to be the dry season). After about 10 minutes I spotted a dustbin nearby and tore off a bit of its plastic liner. I had popped the battery as soon as the rain started. I left the camera body in a bag of uncooked rice for about 4 hours, after drying it off. When I checked the sensor by taking a photo with a 90mm defocussed at f16, it looked as if the sensor had measles. I assume these were condensation spots. It took three wet cleans and a tidy up in the corners with the mini swabs to get it 100% again. Otherwise a clean about every 2 months seems fine and every other clean, just a swipe over with an Arctic Butterfly usually does.

 

Wilson

[rscheffler]

I attended a clean & check clinic provided by NPS (Nikon Professional Services) where I work - they used Methyl Hydrate, (they showed me the retail container when I asked), to moisten cleaning cloths they described as PecPads or KimWipes but softer (apparently specially imported by them from Japan), wrapped around tweezers to clean sensors. I have seen Canon's technicians do the same...

 

Their opinion of all the various special sensor cleaning fluids was that they're essentially the same as Methyl Hydrate, but with a huge markup. My local camera shop said essentially the same, after inspecting the MSDS documentation for the various sensor cleaning kits they sell. Of course, if you go to various sites from the sensor cleaning brands (one of which is cleverly designed to look non-commercial), they recommend against methanol based cleaners..

 

BTW, 1L of Methyl Hydrate at the local hardware shop here sells for about $5.

 

As with anything, proceed at your own risk...

[wlaidlaw]

Just for those who might be confused, methyl hydrate, which sounds like rocket fuel is better known as methyl alcohol.

 

Wilson

[rscheffler]

Checked today with the camera shop, and the staff said their recollection of the MSDS is isopropyl alcohol rather than methanol...

 

The sensor cleaning vendors are required to supply MSDS information on request, so if anyone is really interested in knowing what the major components are of their 'secret sauce', it would be one way to find out.

 

Again, do this at your own risk...

[Washington]

Methyl Hydrate

 

Other names:

Hydroxymethane

Methyl alcohol

Methyl hydrate

Methyl hydroxide

Methylic alcohol

Methylol

Wood alcohol

Wood naphtha

CH30H

[Washington]

I think you can drink this stuff!

[bpalme]

When in tropical/humid environments I sometimes warm up the camera with a hairdryer.. (not too much heat of course) Just enough warm it a little . Going from a really cold room to hot/ humid outdoors is like having a glass of ice water. Water condenses quickly and could be inside the camera too.

 

Normal cleaning for me is the blower- check with lighted magnifyer. $6 by the way... I can't see any reason to pay $100 for one.

Visible dust wet swabs if needed.. inspect with lighted magnifyer.

Follow up with a "brand new" lens pen to remove any residue.

[jaapv]

I hope this will not encourage anybody else to use a Lens Pen... That is really not the tool of choice for sensor cleaning.

 

On 99% IPA: The stuff is hygroscopic. If you open the bottle regularly for use or do not keep it in a properly sealed bottle it will soon lose its concentration by the moisture from the air.

I would not drink it in any concentration, Rip, as it will burn your tubes out.... Nor will it do the rest of your system much good.

 

If it is meant for sensor cleaning make sure you get medicinal or lab grade. Consumer grade 70% or 85% is denatured by Bergamot oil, which will leave a fatty residue.

Edited March 11, 2012 by jaapv

[mmradman]

I think you can drink this stuff!

 

CH3OH, drink? Think not unless blindness or death is desired outcome.

[wlaidlaw]

The only alcohol you can drink is Ethyl Alcohol or Ethanol, C2H5OH. Methyl or Iso Propyl alcohol will kill you in short order. Along with the higher alcohols, collectively known as Fusel Oil they are the main contaminants in bootleg spirits, which is why it is so dangerous and kills thousands each year.

 

In January, we went round the River Antoine Distillery in Grenada. I was pretty shocked by their casual uncontrolled approach to distilling and the plant, which was last modernised in around 1800. The cane crusher is powered by a huge water wheel. They make 2 different strengths - 78% and for wimps, 69% alcohol, some of which will be ethyl but given their methods, not all of it. I was driving, so had an excuse not to taste it. My wife said it was pretty foul. Maybe better for sensor cleaning than drinking.

 

Below is a pic of the still. The pipe running into the top of the still is the alcohol recirculation system. If on testing with a hygrometer, the specific gravity shows the water content is still too high (their only test as far as I could see), then the output is pumped back into the pot still to be distilled again.

 

Compare and contrast with the equipment at our friends' distillery, St Nicholas Abbey, in Barbados.

 

Wilson

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[SJP]

Alcohols in general are quite good (although not perfect) cleaning agents.

 

They combine polarity of the CH2-OH group with hydrophobicity so you get a quite wide spectrum of cleaning ability.

 

The lower alcohols, in particular methanol: CH3OH, MeOH etc. are very hygroscopic and very volatile. It evaporates faster than you can swipe the sensor. Also, indeed you go blind if you drink the stuff in any quantity. On top of all this in my opinion it is too polar. Probably the best polar solvent is dihydrogenmonoxide AKA distilled water, readily available by breathing on the sensor..

 

Next one on the list is ethanol, CH3CH2OH, EtOH which is OK for drinking but not particularly good for sensor cleaning. It is very difficult to get the anyhydrous version of ethanol. Industrial versions are usually only 70% and mixed with MeOH to avoid taxation. OK in principle but basically useless.

 

So we continue on our quest, next up is propyl alcohol which comes in two variants:

CH3CH2CH2OH and CH3CH(OH)CH3, 1-propanol and 2-propanol (AKA isopropanol, IPA).

 

IPA is not very volatile, so you have some time for swabbing the sensor, it is not all that hygroscopic so it leaves little stain, it will not make you blind although not very good for the health, it is dirt cheap even for spectroscopic grade.

 

The higher alcohols C4OH and upwards are not volatile enough and not polar enough.

 

So after considerable R&D effort the science department at "Eclipse" decided that IPA was the optimum, also for reasons of cost & markup.

 

There are better cleaning agents but they are so efficient that home use is not advisable, especially as they may dissolve coatings as well causing euphoria and unconsciousnesses.

[jaapv]

You're quite an expert on alcohol how about just using Vodka as sensor cleaning fluid?

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[SJP]

Indeed vodka is an option:D.

 

To put prices into perspective, chemical; grade alcohols are in the 1 - 5 euro per liter range unless interestingly flavored drinking grade ethanol (wine, beer vodka etc.) or pure EtOH. Then the prices go to ca. 20 euro/liter (70 - 97%).

Edited March 11, 2012 by SJP