lilmsmaggie Posted January 19, 2011 Share #1 Posted January 19, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, I'm new to this forum and Leica's. As luck would have it, I'm the new owner of a Leica M5 w/ 50mm f2 Summicron lens. This is my first real rangefinder and Leica. I'm used to shooting with SLR's and seeing what the "lens" sees. I'd like to do some street photography but need to understand how to optimize: (1) fast focusing when my subject may be on the move and (2) zone focusing when I have a bit more time. Bottomline - I'm looking for rangefinder shooting techniques. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 19, 2011 Posted January 19, 2011 Hi lilmsmaggie, Take a look here Making the best of a M5. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
ho_co Posted January 19, 2011 Share #2 Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on getting what I think is the best film Leica ever. Practice is the main thing, of course. One focus trick some recommend is that you always return the lens to infinity when you stop shooting; that way, you only need to turn it one direction. Another thing is to prefocus on where you know the subject will be, watch through the finder, and fire when the two images coincide. A variant of that also works in lower light or with faster lenses; in a close situation, swaying your body slightly forward and back once you've set the focus can line up the two images much more quickly than twisting the focus ring back and forth. With manual-focus SLRs, one generally needs to push the lens through the best focus, then slide back through and come back again to shoot. That is, you use the fact that the image is getting less sharp again as a sign you've overshot, and move back in a smaller step to see that you've got it. With a rangefinder, the coincident image is usually so sharply delineated that you don't focus back and forth, but bring the images into alignment once and fire. (My eyes aren't as good as when I learned that, but it's still a good rule to keep in mind. If it takes more than two seconds to focus, you're doing something wrong.) Keep in mind also that the rangefinder has two windows. Because of the way the M5's speed knob is placed, it's easier to keep your fingers out of the way of the smaller one. But if a finger or the strap blocks the smaller window, the second image will disappear from the finder. Enjoy the camera! Others will doubtless have their tips and probably some book recommendations as well. Edited January 19, 2011 by ho_co 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin_d Posted January 19, 2011 Share #3 Posted January 19, 2011 Welcome, I changed over from SLR as well just over 18 months ago to an M5. It is a great camera and I will never go back. It took a little while for me to get used to the focussing, now I try and preset the focus on the street to a set distance then shoot when I am in that range or adjust slightly. I think knowing your lens is just as important as knowing the camera. Work out what focussing distances work well with what exposure settings in what circumstances with your Cron. Happy shooting, the experience is unsurpassed with the M5. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 19, 2011 Share #4 Posted January 19, 2011 Hi Street shooting for people gestulating, scratching ear etc. 5cm lens 12 foot f/8 or smaller 1/125 35mm lens 6 foot f/5.6 ditto 28mm lens 5 foot f/4.5 ditto 400 ASA Ilford Delta scale focus, instinctive point from hip, an MD would do, a winder would help, I use IXMOO so an M5 would not help. If it is too dark I go to coffee shop. Noel 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin_d Posted January 19, 2011 Share #5 Posted January 19, 2011 Noel, those are good guides, thanks. But humour my extreme ignorance, the reference to MD and IXMOO, what are they? And the winder, are you referring to the film winder? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpattison Posted January 20, 2011 Share #6 Posted January 20, 2011 Hi Colin, the Wiki pages at the top of the Forum is useful for searching .... MD is an M body with no viewfinder (Noel reckons if shooting from the hip, who needs one?) it is used with a Visoflex (see Wiki) He refers generally to a motor winder (for M4-2 onward, not the M5) to make street shooting faster. IXMOO is a reloadable metal cassette (can't be used in M5) John 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpattison Posted January 20, 2011 Share #7 Posted January 20, 2011 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) Watch Chris Weeks' video in 3 parts. Can be viewed full screen. Various street shooters talk about street technique with film and digital. Street Photography by Chris Weeks and the new Leica M9 | Photoinduced.com John Edited January 20, 2011 by jpattison typo 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilmsmaggie Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share #8 Posted January 20, 2011 Thanks for all the good info. I'll check out the Wiki too! Dwain Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bateleur Posted January 21, 2011 Share #9 Posted January 21, 2011 My two cents worth ... Familiarity first and foremost with your equipment, that all settings come naturally for instance focus direction, turning the shutter speed instinctively. Also being prepared for instance if you have a tab on the focus ring that it is always at a position that suits the expected subject distance as Noel suggests, and preempting the exposure by continually adjusting if you change from shadow to direct sunlight ie you are able to shoot without having to match needles or consult the focus patch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 21, 2011 Share #10 Posted January 21, 2011 Yes I use a meter, meter for subject in shadow subject in sun sun behing cloud memorise three apertures (or four). Repeat every hour at begining and end of day. It is dark here so it is f/5.6 most of time with 400 ISO. If you are new use XP2. The reason for instinctive point is you can only anticipate a kiss or a slap to a degree, by the time you get the camera to eye it is frequently too late, you can be too early as well, a winder might give you a second shot, got one never use it. Noel Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlatkob Posted January 21, 2011 Share #11 Posted January 21, 2011 Good advice from Yanidel here: Manual focus technique Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 21, 2011 Share #12 Posted January 21, 2011 Good advice from Yanidel here: Manual focus technique shoot from hip instinctive point CNY '07 newr to Leicester Sq Tube prefocus 6 foot, XP2 mini lab scan f/5.6 1/125 Canon P Canon 35mm f/2 type II Noel Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/142016-making-the-best-of-a-m5/?do=findComment&comment=1565007'>More sharing options...
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